Mt. Hood: September 3-4 2017
Ricole and Michael Brown and Mick
Davis
Elevation: 11,245 ft
3.6 vertical miles from Lodge to Summit
It all started to get real as we drove through Government
Camp. The sun had already set and there was smoke in the air from all the
Northwest forest fires. We were both very excited to take on a new challenge,
unlike anything we had ever done before. Ricole felt a little nervous, more
than any race she had ever run-mostly because we did not yet know what we were
in for or what to expect. But mostly the happy, excited butterflies. Our plan
was to do an Alpine start, beginning around 11pm to hike through the night
while the snow was cold and hard. Ricole’s cousin Mick is an experienced
mountaineer who has climbed many tall peaks, including Denali. This was his 8th
time summiting Mt. Hood. He is also part of a search and rescue team, which
made newbies like ourselves (and our mothers) feel very comfortable. Mick had never climbed in such warm summer
weather before, so he was unsure if we would be able to summit or not. We were
very hopeful that we would be able to get to the top and confident in his
ability to assess the conditions and make the wisest decisions. Our primary
concerns were rockfall, expanded crevasses, and the berghsrund. Regardless of
what our final elevation would be, we were excited to be on the mountain with
Mick, learning from him and experiencing a new adventure.
This whole trip started taking shape a few months prior. A
goal that we have is to climb Mt. Ranier. We know that will take preparation,
training, gear, experience, etc. So, with that in mind, we began researching
good training climbs to do. While in Roseburg, visiting the Martins, we visited
Mick and his family, asking for his advice. He showed us some of his gear-
harnesses, ice axes, helmets, ropes, crampons, etc and made recommendations of
gear we would need for a successful climb. We specifically asked him about Mt
Baker, a training hike we thought would be good to do. He steered us away form
that option due to the many crevasses and suggested Mt Hood instead. He even
offered to come along with us if we could set up our schedules to make it work.
Before we left Roseburg, he thoughtfully provided us with a couple
Mountaineering books and other useful websites and resources to continue our
research. Michael was especially having fun looking over the gear and asking
questions. Mick was great to spent time talking with us.
Our
climb was Labor Day weekend. After Church, we dropped the girls off at Tom and
Joan’s house and then left Maple Valley around 5pm, heading towards Timberline
Lodge. We arrived at about 10pm and went inside the lodge exploring around and
changing into our climbing clothes. We chatted with one of the hotel lobby
receptionists and she was surprised we would even be attempting to summit that
night, reminding us of the danger of rock fall during the warmer months. We met
up with Mick in the parking lot and double checked all our gear. We narrowed
down what we would carry up since it was such a warm night. Mick wisely knew we
wouldn’t need all our cold weather gear. Ricole and Mick even ended up starting
the climb in shorts- not planned by either of us, but we happened to wear
athletic shorts for the car ride there. Then, we headed to the lower lodge,
where climbers are required to check in to receive a wilderness permit before
ascending. And the we began our climb! It was just before 11pm.
It
started out as essentially a night hike on dirt and rocks since there was no
snow yet. The moon was so full and bright that night that we didn’t even need
our headlamps until about 3am. As we walked, it was fun to chat and catch up
with Mick. It felt surreal to be actually doing a new and exciting adventure
that we had been planning for weeks. We passed the Silcox Hut and the ski
slopes. We walked on the snow in our boots for a while before needing to put on
our crampons. We rested just below Crater Rock for a snack and water and then
put on our crampons to cross the first glacier. Then, we came to another rocky
section, so we took off our crampons for a but until we got to the next
glacier. At this point, we put our crampons back on and roped up. We were
pretty warm while we were moving, but each time we stopped, we put on our puffy
coats. The elevation, wind, and sweat cooled our bodies fast while at rest. Our
food mostly consisted of Clif bars, PBJ’s, and homemade energy balls, and a few
fruity energy chews. We each took up about 3 Liters of water.
It was
about 3am when we finally felt like true mountaineers, with our ropes,
crampons, head lamps, helmets, gloves and ice axes in hand. For Mick, this was
all second nature, but for newbies like us, we were feeling pretty legit. Mick
showed us a few techniques for using the crampons and ace axes. Mick frequently
surveyed our surroundings, looking for the best and safest route to take. He
led the way, I followed in his path about 20 yards behind, and Michael about 20
yards behind that. It was pitch black outside, yet we could see the beauty of
the full orange moon. I could look up and see the light of Mick’s headlamp and
I could look down and see the light from Michael’s. Other than that, it was me
and the mountain. I followed Mick’s footprints exactly. One step and a time. I
was pretty focused on each footstep and each hammer of the ice axe in my hand.
I think the darkness of night played to my benefit here, providing somewhat of
a blanket to shield me from seeing and being fully aware of the fact that I was
on the face of a mountain with a very basic understanding of what I was doing.
We
passed Crater Rock and made our way to Devil’s Punchbowl. The fumaroles here
smelled like rotten boiled eggs due to the sulfur content. This was a deadly
combination when mixed with the lack of oxygen of the high altitude. If we
would have stayed here any longer, someone may have thrown up. Michael felt
nauseous here and we were all glad to get passed this point. (Funny thing, I don’t
remember the horrid smell on the way down, but we were probably going a bit
faster that our noses could pick up on)
The
higher we got, the more careful and aware we needed to be regarding the crevasses.
Mick knew the mountain’s terrain very well and could orient where we were based
on distinguishing landmarks. Although he did mention that the mountain looks a
lot different when parts of the mountain were revealed through the melted snow.
His experienced eye could see dangers and safe passages that we could not. At
this point, we began using pickets-small metal rods to anchor us across and
around the deep crevasses. We came pretty close to a couple of them, but
fortunately Mick knew the best way to navigate through. Time went on and one
foot at a time as we kept working our way up.
In due
time, we came to the final scramble spot where—if circumstances and weather
permitted—we would advance to the summit. Our main concern was rockfall at this
point. Each of us was outfitted with helmets to proceed cautiously. Mick
evaluated the situation and confirmed that we could advance up the mountain if
we felt comfortable to do so. We agreed that it would be safe and worth it to continue.
He also advised that we should unstrap ourselves from the main rope-line. He
said that this should occur since the rope may cause loose rocks to unnecessarily
fall on either us or lower parties on the mountain. We then unharnessed from
the ropes and headed up the remaining shoot.
Not much remained between us and
the summit. We all felt it close and that may have added to the excitement and nervousness
that started to kick in. The sun was also starting to rise as we took to the
last phase of the climb. Mick advanced first to the ridgeline. Michael soon
followed. Ricole was a bit apprehensive at first with completing the final ascent
because of so much loose rock. However, she advanced and soon joined us on top of
the ridge. We all walked along the ridgeline and were able to see the steep
drop-offs on both sides. It was a breathtakingly long way down. Time to keep
the attention and footing moving forward.
The
summit opened into to a sandy, balding area where we could look in all
directions including West to the rising sun. It was an epic sight with the sun
trying to penetrate through the smoke-filled view. It had the affect of
appearing bright red, circular in the sky. The wind was whipping through at a
good clip and kept us attentive to our footing and grip. We took a few photos
and celebrated the achievement of making it to the summit! Mick showed us the
small metallic where some climbers leave notes or other items. However, we soon
realized we needed to move back down the mountain. This was due to the hotter
temperatures of the late season, which required us to advance quickly down
before too much rock loosen from the snow and ice. As exhilarating it was to be
at the top, Ricole mentioned that she sure couldn’t wait to be more secure and
roped back up with Mick.
Once we
made it back down to where the main rope-line was stored, we noticed another
team almost caught up to us in their summit attempt. A few of them were surprisingly
in just t-shirts and light gear moving up the mountain. It was at this point
when Mick has us go down first so that he could secure the line from above. Our
steps were measured and fairly slow but we began moving down the mountain. Moving
down for both of us seemed harder than advancing up the stages of the mountain.
Our bodies were pretty used. We could visualize more of the mountain face. Additionally,
it was also different in using crampons to walk down the steep snow.
The
time passed quickly, though, and Mick even quicker. He would ‘ski’ parts of the
mountain riding on the heals of his boots while we would slowly make our way
down step by step. Both our joints starting to tense and our moving through
scree again took its decelerating toll.
The
morning turned late and early afternoon set in as we moved down the mountain.
Luckily, Ricole had some energy balls she pulled out for us to snack on as the
parking lot loomed closer and closer. We all talked over what we would do the
same or differently on this or other climbs. Overall, though, the day was
getting hot and we were all pretty tired. So, when we made it back to the cars,
it was no surprise that we were all quick to change out of our heavy boots and
clothes into lighter shorts, shirts and sandals. There were no major blisters
but some were coming on.
We headed
into the station to complete the paperwork of our climb, successful summit, and
safe return. Although we didn’t have much to thank Mick with, we gave him some homemade
venison jerky and expressed our deep appreciation for his help and direction during
the climb.
We
split ways at this point in search of foot and sleep. Ricole and I drove a ways
before having to turn off for rest. The heat was too much, however, for us to
truly nap without headache or discomfort. So, we drove a little further to eat
burritos from Chipotle and refill our waters. Then, we drove the few hours home
to pick up the girls from Tom and Joan’s place. It was great to ultimately be
home again.
The girls had a blast with Tom and Joan while we were gone.
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